I grew up at a time when Gisele Bündchen and a generation of Brazilian supermodels ruled the fashion world, and Rio became a recurring backdrop for the hottest editorials on the planet. Sensual, sweaty, and impossibly cool, the city turned into a top destination, especially for gay men. Now Brazil, and especially Rio de Janeiro, is having a moment again. Massive concerts on Copacabana Beach, drawing millions of gays to the sand to worship Madonna or Lady Gaga, have reminded the world that Brazilians are the most insane audience you’ll ever meet, and that Rio remains one of the most breathtaking cities on the planet.

So You're Going to Carnaval

Carnaval is the biggest, most popular celebration in Brazil, and my favorite time of the year to be in Rio. There is a special energy in the city that is palpable in the air, an intoxicating joy and freedom that makes me want to come back year after year. For queer travelers especially, Carnaval in Rio has long been a space of gender play, transgression, erotic humor, and camp exaggeration, a moment when the city openly celebrates what is usually pushed to the margins. You don’t need to know how to samba or speak Portuguese to belong. All you need is a ton of glitter, constant hydration, and the willingness to let go (and party non stop for four to five days). Think of it as an excuse to experiment, to let your freak flag fly, and to wear as much or as little as you want. No judgement.

Carnaval began as a Catholic tradition brought by the Portuguese and takes place right before Lent, the forty days of restraint that lead to Easter, which helps explain its excess. It is celebrated in different ways across the country, absorbing local rhythms and traditions, but the core is always the same: Carnaval happens in the streets. Race, class, and gender don’t seem to matter when everyone is outside dancing together, and that is a beautiful thing to see and be a part of. No other time of the year will give you that experience in Brazil.

All About the Blocos

For Brazilians, Carnaval starts right after New Year’s, in what’s known as pre-carnaval, when blocos across the country begin taking over the streets. I usually describe blocos to Americans as block parties, but they’re bigger, louder, and far more chaotic: organized groups with live bands or sound systems that parade through neighborhoods while thousands (sometimes millions) of people follow, dancing and singing along. Blocos are the soul of Carnaval. It’s true freedom, spontaneity, and collective joy. With over 460 official blocos scheduled in Rio this year, there’s no excuse not to dive in. 

Blocos move through one or several neighborhoods, so you can catch them by showing up at the meeting point (concentração) or simply joining whatever bloco is closest and following along. Locations and times are flexible at best, often announced last minute, so your safest bet is to follow the blocos on Instagram for real-time updates. Or just ask your Brazilian friends what they’re doing that day and tag along.

Saturday, February 14

• 7am: Céu na Terra at Rua Almirante Alexandrino, 89, for fabulous views of the historic district of Santa Teresa (and yes, this one is for the early risers).
• 7am: Amigos da Onça at Calçadão da Praia do Flamengo.
• 3pm: Banda de Ipanema at Rua Gomes Carneiro, 55, for those staying in Ipanema.
• 4pm: Cordão do Prata Preta at Praça da Harmonia in Gamboa (go straight from the bloco to a party downtown).
  

Sunday, February 15

• 8am: Divinas Tretas, an LGTBQIA+ bloco, at Praia Do Flamengo, 340.
• 1pm: Agytoê at Praça Cardeal Câmara in downtown Rio.
• TBD: Boi Tolo, location and time to be announced, but try to catch it going from Flamengo to Copacabana. It is one of the largest and most traditional blocos in Rio, and crosses the entire city in a marathon that lasts over 10 hours.
• TBD Tubaphonics, location and time to be announced.
• TBD: Summer Eletro Bloco, location and time to be announced, featuring Carnaval versions of European electro hits.

Monday, February 16

• TBD Loló de Ouro, location and time announced on the spot.
• 8am: Bloco Virtual Av. Atlântica, 656 in Copacabana.
• TBD Ibrejinha, location and time to be announced.
• TBD Não Monogamia Gostoso Demais, location and time to be announced.

Tuesday, February 17

• 2pm: Sereias de Guanabara, the largest LGBTQIA+ bloco in Rio, at Praia do Flamengo, 340.
• 4pm: Orquestra Voadora at Aterro do Flamengo.
• TBD Amores Liquidos, location and time to be announced.

Wednesday, February 18

• 1pm: Me Enterra na Quarta (or “Bury Me on Wednesday”—the name says it all) at Av. Augusto Severo, 64, in downtown Rio.

Wear something fun and colorful, whether that means a costume, biker shorts, rave gear, fishnet bodysuits, or just a tiny speedo and sneakers. Animal prints, neon, and sequins are always safe bets.

As for proper bloco sexual etiquette, kissing strangers is highly encouraged (and almost mandatory). Everyone is a bit drunk, half naked, and horny, so be respectful, kind, and have a sense of humor. As Brazilians, I think we are born with this telepathic thing that makes us immediately aware if someone is consenting to a kiss just by looking in their eyes, but if you don’t have that ability, a simple “posso te beijar?" (can I kiss you?) does the trick. Also, just because someone has their ass or tits sticking out, it does not give you the right to touch it. When in doubt, always ask with a smile on your face.

Time to Party

What I also love about being in Rio at this time of the year are the parties. I love to dress up in elaborate costumes, and the parties in Rio give me a chance to be decked out in crystals and wear things I would never get to wear anywhere else during the year. Also, being on a dance floor surrounded by other people in costumes and makeup is a transcending experience. Show up in sequined shorts, rhinestone chains, or cover your body in glitter. More is more when it comes to accessories and sparkle, and it can all be layered over a naked torso for bonus sex appeal. I find it a bit disrespectful when people show up not wearing costumes or without making an effort to fit in. If it weren’t for the people dressed up in super creative, sexy and fun looks, the energy wouldn’t be the same, so please pack all the rhinestones and sequins in your closet for the evening festivities.

As for where to go, here is my list of suggestions for this year (and keep in mind that just like blocos, locations for parties are sometimes announced on the day of the event).

Saturday, February 14

• Selvagem (starts at 4 pm at Praça Marechal Âncora): what started out as a party in downtown São Paulo has become one of the biggest events during Carnaval in Rio, and it’s always the thing to do on Saturday evening. Selvagem used to cater to a more mixed crowd and became super gay over the past three to four years. Go early for DJ Trepanado’s set, mixing Brazilian beats with dance music and an occasional Spice Girls remix. It is always one of my favorite DJ sets every year.
• V de Viadão (starts at 11 pm): for the queer kids and a younger super cute audience, with pop and dance music and drag shows. 

Sunday, February 15

• Deseo Latino (from 12pm until midnight, at Bar Dellas): Bar Dellas in the Gamboa neighborhood has become THE meeting spot over the past few years. Super chill and fun vibes with DJs inside and people crowding the sidewalks. Make sure to stop by.
• Domply Carnarave (starts at 6 pm, location yet to be disclosed): as they name says, it is a Carnaval rave with some of the best electronic music. 
• CarnaKevin (starts at 11 pm, at Rua Sacadura 135): after a packed new years edition in the city, São Paulo’s best gay night returns to Rio for Carnaval. Add rhinestones to your fetish wear (and expect a dark room).

Monday, February 16

• Svrvrv (starts at 7 pm, at Edificio Touring in Praça Mauá): the guys from Svrvrv always know how to throw a party and decorate a venue, and this year the party will last for 14 hours straight, featuring Lady Shaka.
• Carnageralda (starts at 6 pm, location yet to be disclosed): Carnageralda used to be a pre-carnaval event only, but since last year it has moved to Carnaval weekend. The crowd is mixed, but with a pretty big gay contingency and some of the coolest people in Rio. Do not show up in everyday clothes.
• Novo Affair Carnaval (starts at 6pm, at Quadra São Clemente): another queer São Paulo party, loaded with ballroom references, making its way to Rio this Carnaval.

Tuesday, February 17

• CarnaRara (starts at 3 pm, at Praça Marechal Âncora): if you have any energy left on Tuesday, head to Rara for a cast of beautiful Brazilian boys and great electronic music at a massive venue by the water, headlined this year by international DJs Seth Troxler and Carl Craig.

And on the topic of partying, loló is the drug of choice during Carnaval, omnipresent on all dance floors. Loló is a mix of inhalants that has circulated in Brazilian party culture for decades, sort of the local equivalent to poppers. The only reason I mention it is that Brazilians usually put it in empty beer cans, so before you take a drink from someone, please make sure there is no loló in the can. It is super toxic and dangerous if ingested.

Something You Need to Experience

When people think of Carnaval in Rio, they usually picture the massive floats at the Sambódromo, where the city’s top samba schools parade in one of the most over-the-top spectacles on the planet. The parade now runs Sunday through Tuesday, with four schools each night and a re-run of the best performances the following Saturday, and if it’s your first Carnaval, you should absolutely go at least once. Each school gets just 70 to 80 minutes on the avenue after a full year of preparation, with over 3,000 performers singing in unison, and the scale of it all is genuinely insane. For the best experience, skip the stadium seating and get tickets to a camarote, which comes with food, drinks, DJs, a prime view right on the avenue, shuttle service, and a very gay crowd, meaning you can watch the parade and cruise at the same time.

Cruiser Must-Know's

A few things to keep in mind:

• It is brutally hot and humid, so sunscreen, a hat, and constant hydration are non-negotiable, and street vendors are everywhere if you forget.
• Don’t forget to pack: speedos, colorful gear, fun accessories, sunglasses, hats, a fanny pack or small bag, a large fan, glitter in all different shades, and one pair of leather or waterproof sneakers (which I find super helpful in case of light rain and, trust me, you don’t want to be in flip flops in a bloco).
  
• Getting around is easiest by subway since many streets are blocked and getting a ride downtown can be nearly impossible.
• Most importantly, keep your belongings locked and close to your body at all times. A cheap waterproof fanny pack worn under your clothes works best, and if you carry a bag, keep it in front of your chest and secure the zipper. I recommend carrying cash in Reais instead of cards or your phone, tucked into a sock or speedos, and never bring your passport with you. A driver’s license is more than enough and will save you a lot of unnecessary stress.

I find that the beach is always the best way to recover from the madness. Fresh coconut water and an açaí bowl (or fresh corn as recommended by my boyfriend). If you are staying in Ipanema, go to Barraca do Portuga106 to hang out with the locals or to Barraca da Denise 63 at Farme de Amoedo for a ton of gay cruising and an army of Brazilian men and bulges in speedos. If you are staying elsewhere, I suggest Rasta Beach in Leme at the end of Copacabana. The crowd will be more local, less touristy and much cooler—and there is a gay stand called Ponto G.

For the sex part, I think of Carnaval as more of a time for fantasy and play than actual fucking. After being out on the streets for hours and going from a bloco to a party, usually all my body wants is food and a long shower to remove all the sweat and accumulated glitter. However, if you are still horny from kissing twenty Brazilian men all day and you are reading this on Sniffies, you probably don’t need my advice as to what to do. Also, keep in mind that the entire city becomes a massive cruising spot. 

Photos by Camilo Tapia and Pedro Pinho